From an isolated stretch of the coast north of Trinidad, California, the mussel-peppered granite of Patrick's Point projects into the Pacific Ocean. Made raw by perpetual blasts of cold wind, the point is covered in a forest of mushroom-decked pine and spruce stands. Some lay in disarray, their trunks shredded by winter storms. Hike the edge of the park along the eroding Rim Trail and scan the horizon for the tell-tale spout of a migrating whale from the peak of Wedding Rock, a hundred feet above crashing waves. Climb wet cliffs and sea-stacks for commanding views of the sea, on the rare occasion that the fog lifts. Yurok dancers perform a traditional Brush Dance in Sumeg Village nearby. An abundant supply of translucent stones are waiting to be sifted through at Agate Beach, beneath a great sandstone bluff at the north end of the headland. From here, surfers paddle a quarter-mile through rocks and fierce surf to the point break, where the winter storms toppling the trees above sometimes bring forty-foot waves.
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Pacific Grove provides way more sense of place than Monterey. The town was founded as a Methodist church camp in 1875, which explains why the houses sit so close together: they occupy plots originally scaled for tents. PG has a rich diversity of architecture, from grand Victorians to Craftsman bungalows. For good photo ops, head to Ocean View Blvd. Downtown PG has some fun window-shopping, but the town’s real draw is its coastline. For knock-out bay views, walk (or bike) along Ocean View Blvd from Lover’s Point to Point Pinos, which sits at the very tip of the Monterey Peninsula. On a clear evening, you can’t beat the sunsets. Gorgeous.
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After a long day studying or hiking in Tilden Regional Park, turn left from Golf Course Road onto Grizzly Peak Boulevard for an evening treat. Keep your eyes on the winding road to avoid tumbling down steep cliffs. Pick a turnout, any turnout, for sweeping views of the bay, accessible since the road opened in 1932. My favorite spot is 1.2 miles from Golf Course Road where a few logs provide comfortable seating. Watch the sun set the sky and water ablaze before melting into the ocean behind San Francisco’s skyline and the Golden Gate Bridge. Drink it all in from your lofty perch until fading colors are replaced by glittering lights and stars.
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