Watermilling Through the Past in Rastoke, Slunj, Croatia
Sure, you should hit Plitvice Lakes National Park, but consider a stop at its uncrowded miniature en route: Rastoke, Slunj. Green water in its narrow, clear river slips over a travertine wall into the Korana—a nice warm-up to similar stair-stepping lake action at Plitvice. A quiet cafe juts over the fall. Buy a bag of corn ground for polenta at the 18th-century mill, its waterfall running under the trapdoor in the worn-out wood floor. Parts of the German spaghetti-western series Winnetou were filmed here. Tiny Rastoke exudes a larger-than-life TV vibe: it's a concentrated version of the park down the road.