Nuevo Leon Restaurant

For most Americans, the term "family restaurant" is likely to stimulate both repressed memories and the gag reflex, so why not let an immigrant family, still keenly aware of America as the land of opportunity and not the land of corned beef hash and iceberg lettuce, redefine it for us. Run by the same family since 1962, when Pilsen was still mainly Czech and Slovak, Nuevo Leon features flavor-packed dishes that can please the most discerning Mexican-American palate and satisfy the American who has been known to binge on the occasional Grande Nacho microwaved to perfection at the local food trough. The complimentary salsa verde is tangy bliss and it's virtually impossible to go wrong with anything on the menu. Be sure to opt for the just-pressed flour tortillas, an indication of the restaurant's northern-Mexican bent and a welcome change from the corn you'll encounter everywhere else.

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Your quest ends at the hub of Chicago's vibrant South Side Latino quarter, amidst the murals and cathedrals that make up Pilsen. Nuevo Leon Restaurant is so bright, you've gotta wear shades. Inside and out, the crayola=dream paint job and neon lighting only begin to prepare one for the brilliant bash awaiting your tastebuds. Waitresses in pouffy green and white dresses serve up steaming, spicy hot tamales following a round of complimentary soup and salsa that pepper-novices should work their way up to before attempting. Handrolled from fresh-tasting corn tortillas, these babies are bursting at the seams with succulent red pork chile. Grab a sixer of Negra Modelo before relishing Pilsen's BYOB treasure.

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