Island Vis

As the moon rises, the shore sinks into a melancholy trance. Apart from the waves advancing and retreating from the beach, their foamy tails making a swishing sound between millions of pebbles, you can only hear the buzzing of a fishing rod and the motor of a ship, as it slowly spins its pirouettes on the darkening water surface. Vis is one of the farthermost Croatian islands (only the isle of Biševo is in the way of the celestial body taking its daily dip in and out of the horizon). Taverns nestled in the cozy coves and abundant vineyards will ensure you can toast the sunset spectacle with a glass of local wine.

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A few hours by ferry from Split, Vis is spared from mass tourism. The only sound carried by the warm breeze is that of crickets. As you're puffing uphill your lungs fill with the smells of laurel and lavender—the car motors and fumes being few and far between. Fig trees growing on the side of the lonely roads provide dried snacks. So hop on your saddle; a few days should be enough to explore this treasure trove of an island's nooks, crannies, coves, and caves (don't miss Tito's WWII hideout and the natural wonders of the Blue and Green Cave on nearby islands).

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