Historic Inner City of Paramaribo

Close your eyes and imagine yourself standing inside a gigantic cigar box. In 1883, the constructors of what is now the Saint Peter and Paul Cathedral carpentered the entire interior with unpainted cedar wood, a material more frequently associated with the distinctive smell of simple cigar boxes. The cathedral's solid-looking pillars supporting the roof are hollow-sounding when you knock on them. Basralocus, the only local wood strong and tall enough to support the 16-meter-high structure, is thin, so for cosmetic reasons the pillars were encased in cedar wood planks to create the illusion of more solid and substantial columns. At the time, Suriname was a Dutch, protestant colony. Monsignor Schaap wanted to win over the freed and runaway slaves to his young Catholic congregation and, thus, commissioned the Maroons to do all of the woodcarving assignments. Among the designs are decorations of palm trees that represent God's eternal love as well as the intricate beauty of the tropics. Photo: Coen Wubbels

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Horse-drawn carriages rattle through the streets, women in flowing dresses stroll about. Overlooking the Suriname River from Fort Zeelandia you await a VOC ship sailing into port to unload its belly full of slaves, and in an hour you'll meet your fiancée, the daughter of a wealthy plantation owner, in the Garden of Palms. Paramaribo on an early Sunday morning invokes images of colonial times, when the wooden, white-painted mansions along the waterfront (protected by UNESCO) were constructed. Paramaribo in the 21st century, by contrast, is clogged with Maroons, east Indians, Javanese, Chinese, Surinamese-Dutch and motorized vehicles. The town is vibrant with markets, food stalls, parks and shops. One of Suriname's major events is New Year's Eve – celebrated during the day – which is held smack in the middle of Paramaribo's center. The wide and long verandas of the colonial houses are perfect for festivals and celebrations. On December 31, thousands of spectators applaud parading brass bands and the explosion of a two-kilometer-long superstring of fire crackers that blasts away evil spirits. Photo: Coen Wubbels

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