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Following the WWI Remembrance Trail Close To Amiens, France
The last French survivor of WWI died last year, but the French don't want anyone to forget the Great War. It's a melancholy pilgrimage, peering into the trenches where some 1.5 million soldiers died in the 1916 campaign. Some of the bomb craters scarring the river valley are stadium-sized, so big the shock waves of the original explosion killed soldiers miles away. The Battle of the Somme saw the single bloodiest day in British military history and J.R.R. Tolkien's "Dead Marshes" were inspired by what he saw here as a young soldier. (Ask the tourist office for a map of the major battle sites and cemeteries or a list of guides for a small-group tour.)
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